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Summary
Summary
An exciting debut cookbook that confirms the arrival of a new guru chef . . . A moving, deeply personal journey of survival and discovery that tells of the evolution of a cuisine and of the transformative power and magic of food and cooking. From the two-time James Beard Award-winning chef whose celebrated New Orleans restaurants have been hailed as the country's most innovative and best by Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Saveur, GQ, and Esquire.
"Alon's journey is as gripping and as seductive as his cooking . . . Lovely stories, terrific food." -- Yotam Ottolenghi, author of Jerusalem- A Cookbook
"Breathtaking. Bravo." -- Joan Nathan, author of King Solomon's Table
Alon Shaya's is no ordinary cookbook. It is a memoir of a culinary sensibility that begins in Israel and wends its way from the U.S.A. (Philadelphia) to Italy (Milan and Bergamo), back to Israel (Jerusalem) and comes together in the American South, in the heart of New Orleans. It's a book that tells of how food saved the author's life and how, through a circuitous path of (cooking) twists and (life-affirming) turns the author's celebrated cuisine--food of his native Israel with a creole New Orleans kick came to be, along with his award-winning New Orleans restaurants- Shaya, Domenica, and Pizza Domenica, ranked by Esquire, Bon Appetit, and others as the best new restaurants in the United States.
These are stories of place, of people, and of the food that connects them, a memoir of one man's culinary sensibility, with food as the continuum throughout his journey--guiding his personal and professional decisions, punctuating every memory, choice, every turning point in his life. Interspersed with glorious full-color photographs and illustrations that follow the course of all the flavors Shaya has tried, places he's traveled, things he's experienced, lessons he's learned--more than one hundred recipes--from Roasted Chicken with Harissa to Speckled Trout with Tahini and Pine Nuts; Crab Cakes with Preserved Lemon Aioli; Roasted Cast-Iron Ribeye; Marinated Soft Cheese with Herbs and Spices; Buttermilk Biscuits; and Whole Roasted Cauliflower with Whipped Feta.
Reviews (3)
Publisher's Weekly Review
Two-time James Beard-award winner Shaya has written an excellent cookbook with a moving narrative about his journey from childhood as a young Israeli immigrant to the U.S., to days as a ne'er-do-well student championed by his high school home-economics teacher, to life as a chef in Las Vegas, New Orleans, Italy, and places in between. He recalls his final trip to see his dying grandmother-the one who nurtured him with food as a child. With her unable to speak well, and his Hebrew nearly nonexistent, he raced back and forth from the kitchen to her bedroom to have her taste and critique as he tried to capture the essence of her cooking before she died. He includes those recipes here, among them a chilled yogurt soup with walnuts; spanokopita made with collard greens; and lutenitsa, a tomato-pepper spread. Shaya's infusions of Israeli flavors into American dishes are clever, such as in a labneh cheesecake with pomegranate caramel and candied nuts or a za'atar fried chicken. There are soul-warming dishes, such as ricotta cavatelli with white Bolognese, curried sweet potato and leek pie, and linguine and clams in a carbonara sauce. This is a must-read book for up-and-coming chefs, and a worthy addition to the chef-memoir genre. (Mar.) © Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.
Booklist Review
Part autobiography, part cookbook, Shaya's culinary journey leaves readers astonished at a life lived seemingly perpetually at the edge. Born in Israel, Shaya immigrated to Philadelphia as a child. His parents soon divorced, but a grandmother nurtured his cooking talents, and the latchkey boy learned to replicate such classic Jewish foods as hamantaschen. Always something of a rebel, he fell into a life of petty crime and drug use. But his obvious talent for cooking focused his prodigious energy. So talented was he that he wrangled a scholarship to the Culinary Institute of America. After a stint in several Italian restaurants, he returned to America to open a lauded Italian dining room in New Orleans. Some return visits to Israel summoned him back to his Middle Eastern roots, and he opened an Israeli eatery in the Big Easy. Shaya's complex recipes record the disparate influences on his cooking style and offer plenty of worthy challenges for innovative home cooks.--Knoblauch, Mark Copyright 2018 Booklist
Library Journal Review
James Beard Award winner and New Orleans restaurateur Shaya shares how food saved his life. As an Israeli immigrant child growing up in an unstable Philadelphia home, he bonded with his grandparents over traditional comfort foods and cooked for his divorced, working mother. As a teen, he held food-related jobs but was also doing drugs and engaging in crime when a home economics teacher helped get him get back on track. Readers follow Shaya's enlightenment at the Culinary Institute of America, sympathize as he copes with work (and Hurricane Katrina), and envy his exploratory excursions through Italy and Israel. Shaya's honesty and determination are engrossing, as he evolves from a jerky boss to a collaborative, innovative restaurateur embracing family life and his roots. More than 100 recipes are featured here, along with appealing sketches and color photos. This book has excellent modern Israeli recipes, similar to those featured in Michael Solomonov's Zahav, but it also has wider appeal to memoir fans and home cooks, as the dishes reflect influences from Southern, Italian, and Romanian cuisines. Unlike Zahav, there is no resource list, though the introductory text explains unique ingredients, mentions some sources, and suggests substitutes when appropriate. -VERDICT Recommended for foodies.-Bonnie Poquette, Milwaukee © Copyright 2018. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.
Excerpts
Excerpts
Marinated Soft Cheese with Herbs and Spices YIELD: 6 to 8 servings This dish was a revelation when Emily and I ate it in Milan: when you start with great ingredients, you're wise not to mess with them. It's a perfect moment of simplicity; at the right temperature, olive oil and cheese can be as flawless as anything that costs you far more time, money, or energy. Any brand of soft aged cheese will do--I like La Tur, a flawless mixed-milk cheese that's as creamy as goat, with just a little sheep-y funk that's softened by the cow's milk. Have fun with the spices: throw in a couple cloves instead of the star anise, add a sprig of rosemary instead of the bay, or use lemon instead of orange. 8-ounce wheel of soft goat or mixed-milk cheese, like La Tur 3 cloves garlic, unpeeled 1 teaspoon whole allspice berries ½ teaspoon whole coriander seeds ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 bay leaves 1 dried árbol chile or ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 star anise pod Two 1-inch strips of orange peel, divided A crusty baguette Maldon or other flaky sea salt to finish 1. Heat the oven to 325F. Put the cheese in the bowl or rimmed plate from which it'll be served so that it can soften. 2. Use the side of a knife or a rolling pin to lightly crush the garlic, just so it starts to open up in its skin. Lightly crush or roughly chop the allspice and coriander and add them with the garlic to a small ovenproof saucepan along with the olive oil, bay leaves, árbol chile, star anise, and 1 strip of orange peel. Cover with a lid and bake for 40 to 45 minutes; the garlic will be very golden and the orange rind will have darkened quite a bit. 3. Once the sauce has come together, remove the saucepan from the oven and increase the heat to 425F. Take the second strip of orange peel and give it a little twist over the pan to release the oil, then drop it into the pan and let the oil cool down. 4. Cut the baguette on a bias into ½-inch slices and arrange them on a baking sheet. Toast at 425F for 6 to 8 minutes, until they've built some nice color along the edges. 5. Pour the oil over and around the softened cheese, letting the spices run free, and sprinkle the salt just before serving. Slather the toasts with cheese and encourage your friends to dab up every last drop of the infused oil. Shakshouka YIELD: 4 to 6 servings Plenty of water, for the Jerusalem artichokes, fava beans, and an ice bath 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons Morton kosher salt, divided ½ pound Jerusalem artichokes 1 pound fava beans in their shells 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1pint cherry tomatoes, halved 1 small red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced 1 small green bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced 1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced One 28-ounce can peeled whole tomatoes 1 egg per person ¼ cup zhoug (page 395) Eggs poached in a spicy, savory tomato sauce: this dish serves itself. It's my go-to when I show up at someone's house and everyone is hungry. Chances are, there are eggs and a can of tomatoes on hand. Outside of that foundation, you can be as creative or as simple about adding anything else as you like. Jerusalem artichokes, if you've never had them, taste and feel like a cross between potatoes and artichoke hearts; along with the fava beans, they make this dish special. They do need to be pre- pared separately, but you can do that in advance if it makes your life (and cooking timeline) easier. If you have trouble tracking either ingredient down, substitute any root vegetable--turnips, potatoes, even beets--for the Jerusalem artichokes, and a cup of shelled fresh or frozen beans, such as limas, for the fava beans. Once you put pan to stove, the rest of the dish comes together quite quickly, so, for the sake of the vegetables' flavor and texture, make sure everything is prepped and ready to go. Dress it up or down with your favorite vegetables or meats--whatever's on hand--along with any herbs and spices you like. Tomatoes are the perfect backdrop. You'll need one egg per person, as few as two or as many as six. Part of the fun is making this dish your own, but one word of advice: try it with the zhoug, a spicy Yemeni green chile sauce, like the Middle Eastern approach to pesto. Its fresh, herbal heat is the perfect finishing touch. 1. Fill a large pot with the water and 1 tablespoon salt, and bring to a boil. Thoroughly scrub the Jerusalem artichokes; if they're large or unevenly sized, cut them into even chunks. Boil for 30 to 35 minutes, until they're about the consistency of a cooked potato, easily pierced with a knife but not falling apart. Drain, and when they're cool enough to handle, slice into little coins. 2. Fill another pot with water and bring it to a boil; meanwhile, prepare an ice bath. Cook the fava beans for 5 minutes, or until the outer shell puffs up and pulls away from the bean. The water in the pot will turn reddish, but don't freak out--that's normal. Shock the beans in the ice bath to stop the cooking, then shell them when they've cooled down. You should have about 1 cup beans. 3. Add the olive oil to a large enameled or stainless-steel skillet that has a lid (but don't use the lid just yet). Turn the heat to high, and when the oil is shimmering, pull the skillet off the heat and carefully add the cherry tomatoes; they'll give off a lot of smoke and may splatter. Place the pan back on the heat, and don't stir; you want the tomatoes to char lightly in a few places. 4. After a couple of minutes, when the tomatoes are starting to blister, stir in the bell peppers, onion, and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, for 4 minutes or so, until all the vegetables are a little golden around the edges and the cherry tomatoes are melting into everything else. 5. Decrease the heat to medium, and add the Jerusalem artichokes, favas, and remaining 2 teaspoons salt. Roughly crush the canned tomatoes between your fingers, or chop them, and add them to the pan with their juice. Cook the sauce for a couple of minutes, until it thickens slightly. 6. Decrease the heat to medium-low, and use your spoon to make little divots in the sauce, one per egg. Crack an egg into each, cover the pan, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the egg white is set but the center still jiggles. Dollop a spoonful of zhoug over each egg before serving. Tabbouleh with Preserved Lemon and Almonds YIELD: 4 to 6 servings This simplest of salads always surprises people at Shaya. "How can parsley salad be so complex?" they ask. The answer is twofold: preserved lemon and baharat (page 000). Take the time to find (or make) these ingredients and it will pay off with flavor, although ¼ teaspoon of pumpkin pie spice is a pretty good replica of the baharat and freshly grated lemon zest can stand in for preserved lemon. Bear in mind, tabbouleh is a parsley salad--even the bulgur plays a supporting role--so it is only as good and fresh as the parsley you get. Find bunches with crisp, bright green leaves at the grocery store or farmer's market. ¼ cup water ⅛ teaspoon plus 1 teaspoon Morton kosher salt, divided 2 tablespoons bulgur wheat 5 tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon minced preserved lemon ½ teaspoon Baharat (page 000) ¼ teaspoon ground allspice ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 quarts lightly packed fresh parsley leaves (from about 4 bunches) 1 cup sliced almonds, toasted A quarter of a red onion, finely chopped 1. Bring the water to a boil with ⅛ teaspoon salt (this won't take long since there's so little of it). Put the bulgur in a small heatproof bowl, cover it with the boiling water, and cover with plastic wrap or foil until all the water is absorbed, 15 minutes or so. Fluff it with a fork and let it cool. 2. Whisk together the lemon juice, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, preserved lemon, baharat, and allspice. Stream in the olive oil while you whisk to finish the dressing. 3. Finely chop all the parsley and toss it in a large bowl with the bulgur, almonds, and onion. Drizzle in the dressing and mix by hand. Serve right away. Excerpted from Shaya: An Odyssey of Food, My Journey Back to Israel by Alon Shaya All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.Table of Contents
Preface | p. xi |
Notes on Cooking | p. xiii |
I Echoes of Israel | |
1 My Grandmother's Peppers and Eggplants | |
Lutenitsa | p. 8 |
Watermelon and Feta Salad with Harissa | p. 10 |
Fried Eggplant with Caramelized Tomato and Goat Cheese | p. 12 |
Tomato Soup with Rice | p. 15 |
Bulgarian Lamb Kebabs | p. 16 |
2 Show-and-Tell Borekas | |
Boreka Dough | p. 22 |
Everything Borekas | p. 24 |
Potato and Egg Boreka Tart | p. 25 |
Sweet Tahini Borekas | p. 26 |
3 Solo Hamantashen | |
Peach and Mascarpone Hamantashen | p. 30 |
Israeli Salad | p. 33 |
Schmaltzy Potatoes | p. 34 |
Mom's Leek Patties | p. 35 |
Labneh Dip with Peppers and Radishes | p. 38 |
Yemenite Stewed Chicken | p. 39 |
4 Fishing with My Father | |
Pan-Fried Whole Fish with Brown Butter | p. 46 |
A Good Turkey Sandwich | p. 48 |
Hungarian Paprikash | p. 51 |
Tarragon Dumplings | p. 52 |
Fennel Sausage | p. 54 |
II Rebellion and Redemption | |
5 A Butcher and a Baker | |
Kibbeh Nayeh | p. 63 |
Malawach | p. 64 |
Spicy Scallop Rolls | p. 69 |
Yogurt Pound Cake with Cardamom-Lemon Syrup | p. 71 |
Blueberry Rugelach | p. 72 |
6 Arrested for the Munchies | |
Pastrami Scrambled Eggs | p. 80 |
Za'atar Toad in the Hole | p. 83 |
Shakshouka | p. 84 |
Special Sandwiches | p. 87 |
Green Butter | p. 88 |
7 Home Ec Hero | |
Linguine and Clams "Carbonara" | p. 91 |
8 Wood Ovens and Butterflies | |
Caesar Salad, 1990s Style | p. 98 |
Caesar Dressing | p. 99 |
Simple Cured Salmon | p. 100 |
Labneh Cheesecake with Pomegranate Caramel and Candied Nuts | p. 102 |
Pomegranate Caramel | p. 104 |
Orange Blossom Candied Nuts | p. 105 |
9 Trayf and Tribulation | |
Kugel in Crisis | p. 111 |
Classic Hummus with Tahini | p. 114 |
Shortcut Hummus | p. 116 |
Shaved Cabbage Salad with Orange Blossom Vinaigrette | p. 118 |
Bright Green Falafel | p. 121 |
10 Vegas or Bust | |
Roasted Marrow Bones with Gremolata and Brioche | p. 126 |
Lobster Green Curry | p. 129 |
Lobster Stock | p. 132 |
11 Steak for My Saba | |
Cast-iron Ribeye | p. 137 |
Za'atar Chimichurri | p. 138 |
Brussels Sprouts with Caraway and Tahini | p. 141 |
Creamy Baked Fennel | p. 142 |
Vegetable "Pot Roast" with Duqqa | p. 145 |
12 Boss Man | |
Five-Onion Soup with Provolone Toast | p. 151 |
Gnocchi with Fast Tomato Sauce | p. 152 |
Fast Tomato Sauce | p. 155 |
Chicken Milanese with Watercress and Lemon | p. 157 |
13 Safta's Last Lutenitsa | |
Tzatziki | p. 162 |
Chilled Yogurt Soup with Crushed Walnuts | p. 163 |
Cherry, Jalapeño, and Cilantro Salad | p. 165 |
Roasted Beets with Tahini | p. 167 |
Salmon Roe Ikra | p. 168 |
Collard Spanakopita | p. 169 |
Stuffed Cabbage with Tomatoes and Onions | p. 171 |
Safta's Stewed Strawberries and Ice Cream | p. 174 |
III Finding Home in the South | |
14 The Lost Crab Cakes of Katrina | |
Crab Cakes with Preserved Lemon Aioli | p. 185 |
Preserved Lemon Aioli | p. 186 |
Roasted Speckled Trout with Tahini and Pine Nuts | p. 187 |
Israeli Couscous with Summer Vegetables and Caramelized Tomato | p. 190 |
15 Red Beans to the Rescue | |
Emily's Famous Red Beans and Rice | p. 197 |
Green Salad with Green Dressing | p. 200 |
Green Dressing | p. 200 |
Arugula with Citrus, Olives, and Za'atar | p. 203 |
Tomato and Peach Panzanella | p. 205 |
Farro and Kale with Saffron Vinaigrette | p. 206 |
Apple and Fennel Salad with Candied Pecans | p. 208 |
16 Manischewitz for Willie Mae | |
Buttermilk Biscuits | p. 214 |
Stewed Okra and Bacon over Grits | p. 216 |
Za'atar Fried Chicken | p. 219 |
How to break Down a Chicken | p. 220 |
Jim Core's Kale and Andouille Jambalaya | p. 222 |
17 Day Off for Dates | |
Date Pancakes with Rose Tahini | p. 227 |
Ricotta with Date and Pecan Pesto | p. 229 |
Chicken Liver Pâté with Celery and Dates | p. 231 |
Dates, Turnips, and Bacon with Gorgonzola Dressing | p. 233 |
18 Not So Semplice | |
Heirloom Tomato and Burrata Caprese | p. 237 |
Pesto | p. 237 |
Smoked Chicken with Harissa | p. 239 |
Roasted Chicken with Harissa | p. 240 |
Schmaltzy Cornbread with Gribenes | p. 243 |
Banana Bread with Carob Molasses Butter | p. 244 |
IV An Italian Sojourn | |
19 A Bed by the Dough Mixer | |
Slow-Roasted Lamb Shoulder | p. 254 |
Creamy Polenta with Taleggio | p. 257 |
20 A Real Live Nonna! | |
Marinated Soft Cheese with Herbs and Spices | p. 263 |
Pickled Shrimp | p. 264 |
White Asparagus with Eggs and Speck | p. 267 |
Sea Bass in Cartoccio with Tomatoes and Olives | p. 268 |
Spiced Couscous | p. 271 |
21 My Italian Guardian Angel | |
Tortelli d'Erbetta | p. 277 |
Fresh Pasta | p. 280 |
Pork and Mushroom Risotto | p. 283 |
Blackberry Torta della Nonna | p. 286 |
Chocolate-Hazel nut Semifreddo | p. 289 |
Chocolate-Candied Hazelnuts | p. 290 |
22 Enzo the Pizzaiolo | |
Dough for Pizza and Pita | p. 297 |
Pizza Enzo | p. 299 |
Pita | p. 302 |
23 From Sunday to Domenica | |
Bagna Cauda | p. 308 |
Bresaola Salad with Arugula and Parmesan | p. 310 |
Ricotta Cavatelli with White Bolognese | p. 313 |
White Bolognese | p. 314 |
Cherry and Pistachio Cookies | p. 317 |
Chocolate-Espresso Cookies | p. 318 |
V Homecoming | |
24 Family Meal | |
Smoked Goat Tacos | p. 329 |
Brussels Sprout Salad with Mustard and Toasted Almonds | p. 333 |
Parmesan and Nutmeg Stuffing | p. 333 |
Cranberry Sauce with Rosemary and Orange | p. 335 |
Curried Sweet Potato and Leek Pie | p. 336 |
Flaky Pie Crust | p. 338 |
Sous Vide Turkey | p. 341 |
Turkey Stock | p. 344 |
Gravy | p. 345 |
25 The Reluctant Israeli Chef | |
Whole Roasted Cauliflower with Whipped Feta | p. 350 |
Charoset | p. 353 |
Tahini Chicken Salad | p. 354 |
Matzo Ball Wedding Soup | p. 356 |
26 An Israeli Restaurant in New Orleans | |
Tabbouleh with Preserved Lemon and Almonds | p. 365 |
Moroccan Carrot Salad | p. 366 |
Baba Ganoush | p. 368 |
Avocado Toast with Smoked Whitefish | p. 371 |
Charred Cabbage with Olive Oil | p. 372 |
Matbucha | p. 374 |
Hazelnut and Pomegranate Muhammara | p. 376 |
Malabi with Strawberries, Rose, and Pistachio | p. 376 |
Halvah Iced Latte | p. 378 |
Halvah Syrup | p. 379 |
Moroccan Mint Tea | p. 381 |
VI Essentials | |
Baharat | p. 387 |
Duqqa | p. 388 |
Harissa | p. 389 |
Hawaij | p. 390 |
Herb Salt | p. 391 |
Prepared Tahini | p. 392 |
Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette | p. 393 |
Rose Tahini | p. 393 |
Schmaltz and Gribenes | p. 394 |
Tahini Mayo | p. 395 |
Zhoug | p. 395 |
Acknowledgments | p. 397 |
Recipes by Category | p. 399 |
Index | p. 403 |